Bu Blogda Ara

Thailand etiketine sahip kayıtlar gösteriliyor. Tüm kayıtları göster
Thailand etiketine sahip kayıtlar gösteriliyor. Tüm kayıtları göster

18 Temmuz 2012

Letters from Thailand 5


After the dinner, I move back and sit at my usual spot, a place a bit higher than other chairs and also a bit outside the circle of relatives. I watch one of the aunts –she is a nurse at the district hospital- talking to two kids, one boy and one girl. A few seconds later I notice that she was telling a ghost story to them. Even though I could not hear the words, the way she explained the things and used her body language to depict ghosts or monsters was remarkably successful. I thought she must have done the same thing to her own sons when they were kids. I think it was a kind of story with a moral lesson which will be somehow connected to Buddha’s thoughts or at least the way to be a good Buddhist in modern Thai society. Before the end of the story, the boy left the chair he was sitting on for the entire session and found himself a different company: a bucket of soil which is full of ants. However, the girl didn’t leave her chair. She started crying at the end –afraid of being a bad girl who doesn’t drink milk or doesn’t wai to elders or doesn’t go to the temple for offering her help- and finally found her consolation in the very same aunt’s arms. When the boy sees the girl crying, he leaves the bucket of soil in order to see what made her friend cried. However, his lesson was very soon as well. The ants in the bucket started biting his sensitive skin and soon he too started crying. Aunt nurse hugged him and cleaned his arms, hands and legs from the invasion of ants while talking to him like a prophet, “If you don’t listen to elders, you get punished like this. Next time, stay where you are until the end of the story.”

Kids in İsan are like the kids in any other rural areas in the world. They are poor-looking, prettily-dressed and full of opportunities of fun with their environment: earth, water and air. They don’t know computers yet, no iphones or ipads ever touched their fingertips, no video games yet spoiled their natural life. They usually wander near their houses, play with their peers on the village roads or in the rice fields, swim in a dam or a lake, ride bicycles with their brothers or sisters, climb the trees, play with dogs and cats which are usually friendly in the brutal heat of Thailand. More physical it is, their skin is darker than those who grow up in Bangkok although Bangkok is located about 400 km south of Isan region. However, the same thing cannot be said for the young boys and girls in the villages. The allure of the city life and colors of the modern life style attracts many youth and make them alienated to their own self-beings without giving them much back. I heard many young boys join the local gangs to make easy money so that they can buy those sparkling mobile phones. Although the crime rate is significantly low in İsan region, many of these young people spend their days at internet cafes playing violent computer games or chatting with imaginary friends/girlfriends.

The day I arrived to KK, I saw some fireworks thrown to air from outskirts the village. I asked J about the significance of the fireworks and she told me that originally the fireworks are shot in the air to ask for rain. The peasants did this for hundreds of years during the hot and dry summers. But like everything else, fireworks are also used for pure entertainment for those who cannot find enough ecstasy-provoking activities. Today’s youth uses fireworks to bet for money. They bet on the time that the firework will get back to ground. The one stays in the air longest wins the money.

After finishing with two kids, the nurse aunt comes near to me and talks to me in Thai about my future plans. She seems sad about our going far away. She asks about Turkey, how far is it, how long does it take by airplane, how many people live there, do I have a job etc… I answer them one by one and at the end tell her that “Don’t worry, we will come back next year.” However, my words do not make her convinced. She keeps asking me why I am not working in Bangkok or why I left my work in Vietnam. I have no answers for these questions. I cannot tell her that I need to go to Turkey because I feel my country is getting away from the world of science and freedom. I cannot explain her that we have a government which does everything to make people religious but not moral, not intellectual, not free people.

Then she leaves my desk to help others. Night becomes darker, people get involved in deep conversations about farming, debts, government jobs etc. I take some more photos, watch the differences in people (the men who work in the farm usually have fit body and the veins in their arms are quite visible, the men who work in government offices are usually chubby, it is impossible to spot the veins in their arms)  and then go into the house for reading.

Next day is J’s birthday. We go to KK to have some different air. After doing some shopping, we go to a cinema. Before the movie starts, we are forced to stand up for the King’s anthem. I personally don’t like the idea of standing up for a king. Not for this king or any other kings. If he personally comes to the room where I am sitting, I will definitely stand up and greet him but I would do this to anyone no matter how rich or poor or important or ignorable that person is. I have respect for all humans regardless of his/her class, sex, race, religion and/or nationality. However, being forced to show respect does not really reflect the real respect. It just shows conformism. I can hear from some people saying that “King in Thailand is not only a king, he is a good person and also he is the unifying power for the country”. I fully understand this objection and I also fully object this objection because I believe that a person cannot and shouldn’t be a unifying power for a nation. People in a country should have better reasons to look forward in order to live together in peace. If democracy needs to be balanced by a king whenever it is out of control, then it cannot be called real democracy and surely it won’t be different from the ones “fixed” by the army generals in many other countries including Turkey.

After the movie –It was a postmodern version of Snow White and Seven Dwarves but it was even worse. When will Holywood filmmakers stop enjoying re-making old stories with stupid ends and stripping them to barely visual show? I would rather to see the original story and the jokes so at least it will have some archaic meaning. This way, the result becomes an attempt to create a modern epic but failing with a postmodern shit (cliché) – we went back home. The street going to our house in the village is empty and there is no one around, it is as empty as a desert. 

No one walks on the village roads. Even the shortest distances are taken by motorbike or bicycles. Kids go to school either by motorbike or bicycle, adults go to their offices by their cars… Walking is the sign of poverty and only those who cannot afford any vehicle walk. This is why when I run from village to the district, everyone looks at me as if I am an alien. According to my father-in-law, I am the only person who traveled on feet from village to the district and came back (8 km only) in the known history of the village.

At the weekend, we travel to Kao Ko mountains and stay in a hotel for one night. Then we come back I spend more time on reading and taking notes for stories. Nothing special happens in Thailand since I leave Thailand on 1st of July. Even the time we spent in Bangkok was so usual, so ordinary.

We arrived to İstanbul on 2nd of July at 6 am. From now on, I will write “Letters from Turkey” as right now I am in İstanbul and still trying to settle things in order to catch up a life 12 years behind. Hopefully, I will be able to write enough to make 100 letters (1000 words each) till the end of the year. 

27 Haziran 2012

Letters from Thailand 4


I wake up early in the morning with the songs of birds and the ugly voice of a rooster. Interestingly, the very same rooster started his serenade as early as 4 am in the morning so my sleep, no matter how tired I was, has been interrupted a few times. Despite the noise, I feel rested. The air is fresh and the weather is perfectly cloudy and dry. I wouldn’t want to wake up to a rainy morning only to see a wet ground or to a sunny day only to see no one walking around. I like cloudy rainless days. Although they are still hot and humid, they let me walk around comfortably without the worry of getting so much perspiration. A morning in an Isan village is probably same as a morning in any village somewhere else in the world. Children wearing purple uniforms go to school on bicycles, adults go to work or walk along with the herd of buffaloes, teachers/civil servants drive their cars to their schools/offices, chickens and ducks wander around the empty lands, stray dogs run on the streets to find friends or at least some shade for a good sleep, and those who have nothing to do just stand by the road and watch the flow of the auras before their eyes.

Isan, Northeast part of Thailand, is hardly known to the tourists who visit Thailand. Foreigners usually come to Thailand to see the cities like Bangkok, Phuket, Pattaya, Krabi, Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai etc or the islands like Koh Samet, Koh Chan, Koh Samui, Koh Pipi etc. Historical ruins can be found in Ayutthaya and Bangkok, pristine beaches are in Phuket and Kho Samet, bars and pubs offering all kinds of fun are in Bangkok and Pattaya, mountains and cultural tours are in Chiang Mai… There is nothing in Isan which can attract foreigners. This is why it is very hard to see non-Thai people in this region. Those who come here are mostly married to Thai nationals whose home towns are in Isan therefore it is an obligation for the spouse to visit in-laws time to time (I am also in this category). Other than a few dinosaur bones found near KK area, there is not much to see here anyway. Those dinosaur bones gave idea to the city developers to make huge statues of dinosaurs on the highway, at the main junctions and even in the children parks. I was quite surprised to see those huge carnivore animals at first time, looking over me when I drive car on the high way. But the impression does not stay long. I also went to the museum once and took a lot of pictures with the kids (nephews, nieces etc…). In the museum, there are only a few bones and all we need to do is to have faith to the paleontologists that these bones really belong to dinosaurs lived a few millions years ago.

It is true that there is not much to see in Isan but it is easy to see Isan people in big cities. Many move to Bangkok to find jobs at constructions, at big factories or at hotels. They are a major work force for the Thai economy. I am sure everyone who came to Thailand has tasted the guy yang, som tam and kao niyo which are sold almost in every soi in Bangkok. There are usually two types of work here: Government officer (teacher, civil servant, appointed doctor, dentist, veterinarian etc… or the farmer who mainly grows rice, corn, sugar cane, several kinds of fruits. One of  J’s uncles who usually grows sugar cane bought coffee trees from Kao Ko high lands to plant in his field but I don’t have much hope. Coffee trees need breeze, some cool misty weather. In Isan, those trees will get dry and die quickly unless you cover the plantation with certain materials and create an artificial environment for them. However, in that case the cost will be higher and the competition with nearby markets like Vietnam will be impossible. This reminds me a conversation between a Kurd and Turk politician. The Turkish one says to the other one: You see, there is no discrimination in Turkey. Kurds also can enter parliament. The Kurdish politician answers: Yes, only when they leave their Kurdishness behind and pretend to be a Turk. I am not sure if there is a similar discrimination in Thailand but the recent red t-shirt movement and the ongoing problems in the south tell me that there are people who are not truly represented in the parliament, or at least not represented in a right way.

 There are no big businesses in this region, no large factories to accommodate thousands of workers, no large hotels to employ maids, receptionists, cleaners. This is why those who cannot find a job at government offices will have two options: work at a rice farm or move to Bangkok to work at a factory/hotel/service industry etc… Although the tourists who visit Thailand hardly come to this part of the country, they see a lot of Isan people wherever they go. The woman who changes their bed sheet in hotel room is probably from Chaiyapum, the man who works at Toyota factory is probably from Udon, the girl who serves you beer at the bar is probably from Chumpae, the boy who waits as a cashier at the nearest 7-11 shop is probably from Khon Kaen and the smiling chubby woman who sells som tam with kao niyo at the corner is probably from Korat…

Isan is also the major farmland for Thailand as they grow almost all vegetables here. From this point, there is no wonder why the red t-shirt movement has a lot of supporters in this region. They are the ones who work the most but they are still the poorest. Many don’t have land and work at others’ land for a portion of the rice they grow. Those who work away from home can earn respect from society but the cost is leaving home behind and setting up a new life in which they speak Thai, not their native language. In here, people speak Isan, a language which is closer to Lao than to Thai. This is why J can speak Lao fluently with Laotians in Vien Tien. I know only a few words in Isan but since almost everyone here speaks Thai, I have no problem in communicating with people.

After having breakfast (coffee, bread and egg), I walk around the house, play with Tok Chai a bit, lay down on one of the deck chairs and read a few pages from Bora’s book. Both in-laws go to work so J and I stay at home for the entire day. In the evening, there will be a party for all uncles, aunts etc so we need to prepare a few things. I want to use internet but like everything, internet is painfully slow here. Just to get into the gmail’s inbox takes 15 minutes, reading each e-mail takes about 5 minutes. I don’t even dare to answer the e-mails. Things are slow so I have to adapt to the slowness otherwise I will be having trouble with myself. In fact, sometimes slowness has a lot to teach us, a lot to say. Keep moving slowly, you will be able to see a lot more than what you see when you move swiftly. Keep moving slowly and sometimes stop moving at all, enjoy the motionlessness of your body, enjoy the static dynamism (an oxymoron, isn’t it?) inside you… I gave up on the internet and postpone my internet work to the daily internet café visits. There is one in the district which is 4 km from the village so there is no need to have the stress over the slowness of the connection. With good planning, things can be arranged and the damage can be minimized.  

Life in the village is not only slow, it is also a multi-layered picture of the family history. They throw nothing away in the village so when you walk in the garden or in the house, you see things you have not seen in the cities for long long time. I saw a floppy disk and a fat computer screen next to the stairs. Neither of them are used but also neither of them are thrown away. In the dusty shelves, there are things –wedding cards, toys, medicines, old pictures, car advertisements, tea bags, some old primary school textbooks, matchboxes, powder containers, rusty pins, batteries, combs, coins, hats, broken hammers, blind saws, non-functioning measures, expired well-being products, chess pieces, gecko shit, pillow cases etc – which are totally useless. If we throw them now, nothing will be missing except for the mystical aura of the house. Layer after layer, things are kept as if they had been put there yesterday. People in the village have the habit of keeping everything and throwing nothing because they have seen the bad days, the days of deprivation of food and other necessary things, the days of poverty and hunger. We, the new generation cannot comprehend this as in our time, things are found abundantly. We throw easily because we can replace easily.

After the breakfast, I walk in the garden to see the fruits in the trees. I could spot guava, custard apple, coconut, lamyay (what is it in English?), tomatoes and bananas. There are also a few dragon fruit plants but there are no fruits yet. Around lunch time, I get back to the house to take shower and get ready to go to town. Right before climbing the stairs, I see the little mouse trapped in the cage –who put it there?-, next to the TV console. The little animal with black popping eyes, with a shaking body as if it is wet in the rain, with a short furless tail curved under its legs but protruded near its feet, is staring at me with a demanding message. The mouse is probably one of the many who are responsible of gnawing some pages of my books. I have almost 1,000 books in this house and I consider them as my treasure in Thailand. Most of the books are in English and I bought them in Thailand or in Vietnam. Some I brought from Turkey. Almost all books are in the literature category although a few of them can be put in science fiction, history, memoirs, math/physics textbooks,… Since they eat my books, it should be my privilege to kill this little animal and feel better after the inevitable act of revenge.

I asked J what they plan to do with the mouse. She says “My father takes them outside the village and releases them to empty fields.” I nod with an understanding fashion and see how my father-in-law could be so weak in front of these little monsters. I joke “Why don’t you release them to a house of a neighbor whom you dislike?” Not aware of his/her future freedom or the funny conversation about him/her, the mouse keeps his/her eyes on me, asking for mercy or planning for revenge. When I get close to the cage, s/he attacks, first showing teeth and making some scary sounds and then jumping towards me only to hit the metal wall of the cage.

In the afternoon, we spend some time in the town, at the internet café and at a nearby restaurant to buy food. When we come home in the evening, I sleep in the living room –using the opportunity of no roosters and Tok Chai is still at school-  for a few hours. I woke up with the noise of the preparations for the party. I go to the bedroom to get my camera and my notebook so that I can be the official record-keeper of the event. A party in the village means several things to me:

  1. I can take photos of their faces, their gestures only to decipher them later. Photographs are very rich sources for short stories.
  2. I can take notes about the people’s behaviors, their reactions to certain things, their laughter and their way of sitting/standing/eating etc...
  3. Unfortunately, they speak Isan with each other so I cannot understand anything but if I get involved in conversations, they gently turn to speak in Thai. Therefore, I can get involved in the conversations and perhaps learn a few new things.

The food comes from another town. It is a noodle soup with beef/pork and vegetables. They heat up some other food, bring rambutans, guavas, pepsi and beer and prepare some very spicy sauce. It is a simple food for people who live simple lives. One bowl of food and then drinks, desserts and fruits are all we have. In western standards, this is not even called a party, maybe a family reunion or simply a family gathering. Uncles and aunts come one by one, everybody brings something, a bag of fruit, some drinks or vegetables, desserts. Once they come, they also start helping the hosts for the preparation of dishes. When the oldest uncle arrives, the serving starts. It seems everybody is hungry so eating commences quickly. I sat at one corner of the mat and eat slowly, without putting much spicy color to my noodle soup. People are chatting and eating at the same time. I am listening to their conversations like I am listening to rumbles coming from a happy machine. They speak Isan and I enjoy listening to their local language.

At some point during the dinner, I found a little worm in my food. Taking it out from the soup, although I try not to show it to anyone, one of the aunts sees it and tells me in Thai “Don’t worry! It is only a worm. This means the vegetables do not have any chemicals in them. Healthier than the vegetables you can buy from the supermarket in Bangkok.” Hearing this, I laugh and continue eating, only not knowing whether I should feel lucky to find an entire worm in my soup. It would have been worse –or healthier according to J’s wise aunt- if I found a half worm, wouldn’t it?

Letters from Thailand 3


I am not a travel writer, never wanted to be. It seems to me that every genre in literature requires a special training, if not special skills. I like writing fiction and my blog entries are just a way of discharging my mind when I cannot write fiction. They are written in “stream of consciousness” so I just let my mind float adrift and talk about whatever comes to my mind at the moment of writing. Although I am not a travel writer, I enjoy reading the books written by travelling wordsmiths. For me, it is important that the writer uses a beautiful and impressive language when s/he explains his/her feelings towards new cultures, peoples, cities, towns etc. I don’t really enjoy the style which directly tells me what the traveler sees/does. I guess this is a preference and there might be some other readers who enjoy reading things simple and plain.

While J was driving the car, I take one of the few books from the big back pack and read a few pages. It is Bora Ercan’s second travel book, called “Odysseus Islands, A Journey in Mediterranean Sea”. I know Bora from www.izinsizgosteri.net where some of my writings have been published. I met him a few years ago in Istanbul at his yoga school and gave him one my books. This book is signed by him for my name so I guess he gave me his book on the same day. Although he studied Mathematics at METU, he is currently one of the prominent yoga teachers in Turkey. In his book, he wrote this sentence that took my attention: Yol bana soyunur, ben yola soyunurum. Bir kadının bedeninde dilimin dolaşması gibi dikkatli hareket etmeliyimdir. Yolculuk bir aşka başlangıç gibi heyecanlandırır insanı. Yekvücuttur yol ve yolcu, sevişen iki insan gibi. (The road undresses for me and I undress for the road. I should be moving very carefully as if my tongue is dancing on a woman’s body. Travel excites me as if I start a new love. The road and the traveler became one, like two people making love.)  

The last sentence is the one impressed me the most and made me contemplate the opposite. We can think the traveler and the travelled as dialectical poles. Traveler’s main job is to change the travelled and/or to be changed by the travelled. This way we can explain the effect of the road on people better. We set on roads to change our well-rooted thoughts, to challenge our prejudices, to see the other possible worlds and perhaps to replace the ones we thought as the “only one” with the newly discovered one. If we travel with a narrow mind, we only see what we want to see, we only taste what we want to taste, we only hear what we want to hear.

I remember my arrival to Thailand first time, 12 year ago. With all those religious and nationalistic dogmas in my head, for long time, I kept looking down on people simply because of their religion or their culture. However, the more I lived here, the more I realized that life is possible by believing in different things as well. For a person who never imagined a breakfast can be possible without tea, cheese, olive, jam etc, seeing people eating rice in the morning and not using salt for cooking was the first blow. Then I saw the motorbikes, saw the girls not living a conservative life, saw the boys living freely without the pressure from the religious leaders… Then Buddhism made a big difference in my mind. I noticed that people can behave morally without the fear of hell or without the promise of heaven. Seeing millions of people living peacefully –at least not more violently than the people in my country- and happily, without needing the idea of God, made me think that it cannot be true that God will punish these people just because they don’t believe in Him. If He does, then He shouldn’t be called “Merciful” at all. As Russell puts it nicely “My mother is more merciful than God because she will never put me in infinite fire just because I deny her.”

I start questioning many things after leaving my home country because it wasn’t possible to feel the life of others when I only sit in front of TV and watch the anchor telling me their stories. Road changed me and I believe it can change anyone as long as the person is not carrying his/her prejudices with him/her. If you travel the entire world and come back home with the same dogmatic, narrow mind set, then it means you didn’t travel at all. The revolution needs the right mind set to be materialized in reality. This is probably why they say “You need to revolutionize your language (mind set) before you revolutionize your work.”

Road must change us and the way it changes us is the most natural, the most alluring. It does not brainwash us, does not force us, does not rush us into a deep dark well. It does its duty slowly and patiently. Seeing people on TV, eating fried cockroach, can only make us believe that how more advanced our culture is, how better we are at eating and how dirty/filthy the other people are. But when you sit with a friend and seeing him eating fried cockroaches in front of you, laughing loudly and enjoying his life it will make a big change in your thoughts.  At least you will no more look at those people with disgust. It will sound/look more natural and perhaps one day you too will eat fried cockroaches, taste their crispy skin together with the bitter taste of beer.

With these thoughts rolling in my head, we arrive home. It is almost sunset but the dark blue of the night hasn’t arrived yet. Tok Jai sees me even before I get off the car and attacks me with his dirty feet. I hardly open the door and try to control him but it is impossible to control a happy dog –if he was angry, I can be harsh on him but you cannot punish a dog because he is excessively happy to see his first ever master- . I touch his head, let him lick my hand and arm. He then starts running around me like a planet orbiting sun, apparently he wants to play. I start running around the garden, moving back and forward a few times until losing his attention. I sometimes wonder what makes Tok Chai loves and remember me this much. I see him for one or two weeks a year and even in these weeks I don’t stay home much. However, when I am in the garden, he only comes to me, follows me everywhere and when I go out running he runs with me till the end of the village road. I think he is afraid of leaving the village as the road has many speeding cars. When he sees me busy with something else, he comes and troubles me with his dirty fur, almost like a cat. Perhaps, he has some genes from the felix family as he hates water like the cats do. This is also the reason why he is the dirtiest dog in the universe. As far as I know, he did not take a bath for the last 8 years. We used to wash him when he was a little puppy but after he grows up, he is too stubborn and aggressive to anyone who wants to take him to the bath.Plus, we don't know how to train a dog at all. 

After getting rid of Tok Chai, I can have proper time to greet my in-laws with a Thai “wai”. I also hug my mother in law –first time since I married to J- . Normally, I stay within the limits of the cultural boundaries but this was something I always wanted to do so I did it: I gave her a warm hug. This is another interesting thing I learnt from “the road”. J never touches her mother and her mother never touches her in public. This is partly due to the Buddhist teaching and partly due to the reasons beyond my comprehension. Their way of showing their affection to each other is limited to a wai. This is why J was so surprised when she met my mother. In Turkey, mothers love their kids with extreme display of affection like kissing, hugging, squeezing, pinching etc so my mother did to J all she did to me when I was a little boy. It must have been very scary –in a positive way- for J as this kind of display of affection was totally “out of universe” for her. 

After all the greetings are over, we sit for the dinner. It is set on the wooden table behind the house as it is always done. We never eat inside the house; in fact we never sit in the house under normal conditions. The house is a nice place to sleep in but not to live or to have conversations. When neighbors come, they never come to the front door. They directly come to the behind the house because they also know that people will be sitting and chatting –sometimes eating fruits or snacks- there. Kitchen is outside so cooking is done outside. Washing machine is outside so laundry is done outside. My in-laws sit in the house only when they watch TV, usually after taking shower and before sleeping. They both have their spaces in front of TV so they stay there till the moment they fall in sleep.

I also stay with them a bit at my first night in the village but I am too tired for watching TV –only if I like these soap operas which are always superfluously dramatized, stupidly written, terribly acted by beautiful and handsome models, copied and pasted from the previous ones- . I go to bed as early as 9 pm and fall in sleep fast as if I haven’t slept for many days.

26 Haziran 2012

Letters from Thailand 2


In my last day in Vietnam, all I wanted was to be alone. I tried to meet no one so that I will be all by myself during the entire day. Except for the evening encounter with S. L. and her baby daughter at the garden of Huong Vuong 2, my plan went successful. I only talked with the bank teller in the bank (for the money transfer), with the real estate agent (for deposit) and the girl at Indian restaurant who took my order for dinner. But in the night, I had trouble in sleeping. My mind was not at ease so I kept rolling in the bed for long time. I don’t remember exactly what time I fell in sleep but I am pretty sure that I fell in sleep and woke up several times till morning. My mind was full of questions which come to haunt me whenever my feet are off the ground. I guess this must be a good time for those unanswerable life-threatening questions to come over me, to pass through me and leaving very little to me to breathe on. I slept, woke up, slept again, woke up again, slept again… Finally found the time 5:30, decided to get up.  

This is why at Bangkok airport, I felt sleepy all the time. When I enter the airplane, I sat on my seat only to realize that the guy across my seat was reading Bangkok Post. It is important for me to confess that B. P. has a special place in my personal history. It is the first English newspaper I started reading regularly and when I lived in Thailand, I kept reading it almost every day in order to get the glimpse of Thai nation and Thai people. It helped me to start writing some stories and also helped me to correct my thoughts about Thai people or Thai traditions. Some of my short stories are actually written after reading the news about ghosts hunting ceremonies in North-East temples or political turmoil in South Thailand. I somehow didn’t see the newspapers at the entrance of the airplane so I had to spend time with my kindle until the guy across from me finished with his paper. Then I asked him to hand me the paper if he has done with it. He gave me the paper and this is how I read Sanitsuda Ekachai’s column on Fethullah Gulen movement.

In the article which has a title of “Islamic Scholar gave Buddhist point to ponder”, she talks about her trip to Turkey. Apparently, along with many other Thai journalists, she has been invited to visit Turkey and many businesses/schools/media organizations belong to FG movement. I can imagine how and why these things are being done. As usual FG movement needs support from all over society and they start this with intellectual layer after covering some part of business and education areas. In Thailand, they have a school older than 10 years and they have a sort of chamber of commerce for Turkish and Thai business people. The next level should be then to win the hearts of Thai journalists, Thai intellectuals, make them admire the work of FG and enjoy presenting articles like Ms Ekachai’s to the opponents of FG movement in Turkey. The idea is to tell them “Look, even a Thai columnist admires our work, our way of re-organizing the entire society.

However, what she doesn’t see is the hidden agenda behind this colorful, modern-looking, post-modernly relativist pictures. She doesn’t know how the middle school students are forced to enroll in military schools so that one day military will obey to FG more than they obey to their generals. She doesn’t know how the students in the movement are guided through judiciary system clandestinely so that one day the judiciary system too will be in their hands.  She doesn’t see the hundreds of students and journalists are imprisoned for the most obtuse reasons… If she doesn’t know this, what kind of journalism is this? Why did she even go to Turkey if she doesn’t want to give voice to those who are suffering in an unnamed war against freedom and justice? She doesn’t know that the ultimate aim is to create a society with Islamic rules where freedom and justice will be in the hand of a few “wise” men. They never say it, never mention it, and never talk about it. However, you don’t need to be genius to see where Turkey is now heading towards if we just look at the political struggles we are having. The loyal disciples of FG movement do not shake hands with women (if they do, they do it with remorse), they are against education with girls and boys sit in the same classroom (if they allow it in their educational institutions now, it is because right time has not come yet), they are 100% against letting youth to choose their own future (they must be guided by their talented elder-brothers), they are against teaching evolution in schools (quite a large amount of FG-based literature is on denying evolution in the name of creationism), they are in favor of putting religion in laboratories so that scientists will never discover things against the religious dogmas (their popular science magazines like “Sizinti” and “The Fountain” are good examples for this.)

I don’t deny their achievements all around the world but this is nothing more than a missionary work and all is done on the shoulders of the young, energetic university students or graduates who are real devotees in this long lasting project of changing Turkey. Surely they don’t teach Islam in their schools but these schools are working for two purposes: Firstly they create a huge amount of advertisement for the movement. One should look at the International Turkish Language Olympics that they hold in Turkey every year. If they have schools all around the world, why don’t they do the organization in different countries every year? Wouldn’t it be better in order to know other cultures? But no! It cannot create the same advertising effect if they do it in Mongolia, Vietnam or Egypt. They do it in Turkey so the bureaucrats, mayors, popular singers/show men can be audiences and praise them on Turkish TVs.

The second purpose of the schools is to initiate the first contact with other countries in terms of business. Many high school graduates who couldn’t pass University Entrance Exam in Turkey are sent to far countries to study the language of that country and study university in that country. These young disciples are now fluent speakers of Thai, Vietnamese, Hindi, Arabic, Lao, Khmer, Tagalog, Korean, Japanese etc. And of course they create a reliable bridge between Turkish business people and the business people of their host country when required. In every country, besides having schools, they also have trade agencies which help business people to have connections with local counterparts. This way, the business people make more money and eventually donate more money to the movement.

More things can be written about the FG movement but I am not writing this blog entry to discuss the real goals of FG disciples. For those who wish to know how I know their real agenda, my answer would be very simple: I was one of them. I spent 10 years of my life with them and I reached to certain levels that very few disciples know that they ever exist. My judgment is personal but my personal history is real, not fake at all.

My advice to Ms Ekachai will be this: Buddhism doesn’t need such a project to be praised as a peaceful religion. Buddha never wanted to build a religion or never asked for his image being spread all around the world. His thoughts are the most-revolutionary among other religious prophets as he only says “Anyone wants to join, s/he is welcome. If not, it is also fine.” No exclusivism in Buddhism and this only is enough to make it a unique path for its followers. What today’s Thai people need is not to spread Buddhism all around but to de-institutionalize the religion so that it will go back to its roots. Society can function in its best performance if people’s minds are free from the intimidation of religious zealots and if a secular moral philosophy is constructed within people’s hearts, with or without the need of a Buddha living there.

With these thoughts, some are angry as my country is straying away from freedom and justice, some are hopeful as I am going back to try to make some changes, if they let me, some are pessimistic as the freedom in Turkey is becoming a privilege a few can enjoy these days, some are scary as many journalists, writers, academics, soldiers are put on trials for some imaginary excuses only to intimidate the secular powers in the country and to show them who is the new owner of the nation, I flied over the clouds and drank my second cup of coffee…

I arrived to Khon Kaen with this chaos of thoughts in my head, not relaxed at all, not at ease. J was waiting for me at the gate so we hugged, put the bags in the car and set on the road once more. After talking to J, I started seeing things around me better, with more light shedding on them. At least that dark pessimism lifted itself from my head and let me enjoy the moment for a while. Maybe this was the optimism of “getting back home” or the funny tickling that only love can handle…She drives the car so I just sat at the front seat and watched the road rolling under my feet. Before heading home, we went to a Tesco Lotus in order to buy things for the party. She told me that there will be a reunion party as I am coming back and we are leaving Thailand for Turkey soon. All uncles and aunts will be at our house. So we bought beer, snacks etc and got back to the road again. The highway from KK to Banh Then (It is funny because a few days ago I was riding my motorbike near Ben Thanh market in HCMC and now I am riding in a car through Banh Then, a district in Chaiyapum province) is large and smooth. J can easily go with 120 km/h but she drives slowly as there are many vehicles on the road, many getting back home from their work in KK. 

We see a car-crash scene but we did not stop as the police was already there. The sun is close to setting in front of us, J is happy that I am back in Thailand, I am happy that things so far went according to plan. Once I look at my watch as if I worry about time and she realizes this. She says “Don’t worry. I will take you home before the sunset.” I look at the speedometer and also at where exactly we are and say “It is ok. Take me home before sunrise, that will be enough!” We both laugh and keep sailing towards sun, towards home. 

22 Haziran 2012

Letters from Thailand - 1



21st June: Leaving Vietnam and Arriving Thailand

I wake up before the alarm of my watch rings. There is a sweet twilight outside, looking at me like suspended hopes in the air. I go to the balcony, watch the trees and the sky. The darkness of the sky is slowly turning into a dirty blue, like an old piece of cloth hanging on a kitchen cupboard. The air is fresh, almost like a jar of water brought from a nearby river, crashing my face. The trees are motionless, the buildings are silent, the naughty dogs of the Huong Vuong 2 are perhaps still sleeping.

I go to kitchen and make a cup of green tea and then get back to the balcony. Drinking hot tea and eating the leftover butter naan pieces from last night, I keep thinking of my last six years in Vietnam, the sad memories like sharp edge of a knife never stop hurting the wounds no matter how much time passes over them. Every touch leaves a scar and no scar disappears completely. Besides the sad ones, the good memories are seldom remembered. They are kept only on photos, on facebook pages, on small pieces of papers forgotten inside old books, on movie tickets, on invitation cards… Because the good ones can be found when we look for them, we hardly remember them. Sad ones have no physical place to hide so they hide only in our brain faculties, only to pop up at the most unexpected moments.  Good and bad, colors pour into my mind now while I was sipping my tea and feeling uneasy due to the very spicy “chicken vindaloo” I ate previous night.

I step in the living room again, preparing to leave. Throwing some of the clothes I will not take with me, tidying up the bed, making sure all necessary documents for the travel is with me. My luggage is quite heavy despite the fact that the limit is 40 kg. I am carrying 62 kg with me. This basically means that I will definitely pay for excess luggage but I don’t feel so bad about it. I lived in Vietnam for 6 years and having some excess luggage seems very logical to me. Excess luggage is the proof of excess life or the opposite. If I carry more than I have to, this might mean I don’t know how to dispose things which are no more important to me. However, most of the weight in the luggage comes from the gifts I bought for my family members in Turkey and some math books that I will need for my 8th (last) actuarial exam in October. I already sent 100 kg books to Thailand a few months ago so I don’t have any book to read with me except for my kindle.

I take my four bags and go downstairs. One taxi driver helps me to load things into the car and we go to the airport. The roads are crowded like in any morning of the week day. People go to work, children go to school, some have breakfast on the pavements, some wait for the bus, some exercise while breathing the fume to their lungs. City already woke up and moving fast to reach its equilibrium point before it gets too hot. I watch the people one more time, remembering my first day in Vietnam. I was shocked by the number of motorbikes and the noise coming from the honks. Now when I look at the same roads, I feel like this is what it is supposed to be as if Vietnam cannot be any different from what I see. I think adapting to culture has a lot to do with conformism. However, creative people (writers, painters, musicians etc) are supposed to be non-conformist all the time. Once you start saying “never mind” to the unfairness and suffering around you, you are no more an artist. 

When I pay to the taxi driver, I realize how thin my wallet became in recent days. I threw my ATM cards, I canceled my credit card, I returned my insurance and employee cards, gave the motorbike registration card to its new owner and I no more carry Vietnamese Dong. I only have a few hundred dollars in the wallet and they don’t take much space. The thinning of wallet has also a positive correlation with the number of keys in my key ring. The more I get close to end, the less key I carry. Motorbike key, the key to the drawer in the office, the keys to several locks are all gone. And when I shut the house door last time, I left the key on the table so right now I am carrying no key at all. In my mind, keys resemble two things: status and wealth. The more keys you have the more doors you can open. However, like in many things, there is a limit (think of a utility function). If you are carrying more than a certain number of keys in your pocket, then it might mean you are paranoia, not trusting anyone, always feeling unsafe. Keys and locks always fascinate me. History of locks can be read as history of human minds trying to accumulate wealth and then trying to protect that wealth. The evolution of locks throughout history can be seen as a good example of dialectic struggle between the locksmiths and the skilled thieves. 

Once I enter the airport I see a long queue in front of one counter. Without thinking much, I got in the queue and start waiting. The couple in front of me seems a bit uneasy. They want to move to the other two empty counters so that they will wait less. However, none of the counters has an officer working so none of us knows that which counter will start functioning first. In these kinds of situations, I like to wait where I am and never show greed for “being quickest” because I know that there is no point in gaining a few minutes by having the stress of struggle. No matter where others go, I stay where I am. This might sound a bit “believing in fate” but it has nothing to do with that. I believe that humans are on this earth to collaborate, not to compete. Competition in many cases is wasting time and energy while collaboration makes things possible. At the end, ironically I finish before that couple. Because after they leave the queue, many others also leave. Then suddenly I became the first to be served. I think this was a good exercise of calmness for me before I arrive to the village where everyone and everything move slowly, patiently and sometimes painfully calmly. 

Once I arrive to Bangkok airport, I first arrange my ticket to Khon Kaen and check in for KK flight in the afternoon. After getting rid of the luggage, I first buy a sim card for Thailand. Then I go to the food court to have some Thai food. It is very crowded. I guess it is the lunch time for most people so not only passengers, also the airport personnel are also there. I take a small bowl of tom yam bla with noodles, one bowl of Thai dessert (ruby + sapparot + pumpkin with ice and naam kattiyem). Then I go to have a small cup of cappuccino to get rid of the sleepiness in my head. The coffee makes me wake up a bit but still not very successful. I go to the domestic departures, without wasting any time I go to the gate which will take me to KK. I sit there and rest my eyes till the flight attendants make announcement for the passengers waiting.

Next: Reading Bangkok Post in the airplane, article of Sanitsuda Ekachai on FG movement, arriving Isan, meeting J, shopping for the party and then driving back to village, an accident on the road, slowness of Internet, pictures from history: floppy disks, fat computer screens etc… Tok Jai’s ceremonial welcome, eating Isan food and getting some rest. 


22 Mart 2008

The Marathon

THE MARATHON

“Is there any chance?” Somsak thought while laying on the floor and looking at the whirling fan on the ceiling, “Is there any chance that my last call for life will find an answer somewhere in the world?” He smiled with the lower edge of his mouth when he used the word “world”. But there was a justification for it. That was how the inmates defined what was outside of the prison! Prison and world were two disjoint universes where the residents must have special permission to pass from one to the other. The world was “nibbana”, the ultimate salvation, the end of fire, the tranquility of both dreams and reality. Prison was hell, absolute suffering, filth and boredom…

This last one was the worst. Being forced to stay in a place where you are not needed! “People need to be needed.” his teacher used to say. The less you are needed, the more you feel worthless, the more you lose your point in your life… But he was never needed here. Then what bugs you day and night is a big vacuum of nothingness. Regretting the past and dreaming about a non-existent future. In fact he knew his future! It was death, waiting for him with no escape from it. But still he wanted to cling to life like an ant holding onto a piece of leaf to survive in the water. He was holding onto life with just a thread of cotton, and he felt obliged to hold it until it breaks off, letting him fall on his face to cover the shame of his grotesque memories.

He was the only son of an influential man in the village. Being an only son of a rich and powerful man did not give him many choices in the rural life of peasants. He remembered that people used to call him by his father’s name more often than they used his own name. It was obvious that he would be a spoiled boy, a person with no responsibilities but a lot of atrocities… Then the unavoidable happened! He started alcohol even before finishing high school. Then drugs, being a gang member, beating other school boys, molesting girls, troubling teachers. The entire village hated him but nobody dared to complain. Father was protecting him. Once he raped a girl in the village but it was all kept hidden just because his father paid a few thousands baht to the parents of the girl in compensation. Parents did not dare to ask his father that Somsak must marry with their daughter as it happens in the village. His sins were ignored as till they accumulated into a big pile of hatred among the villagers.

Then one day, he passed the line which he should not even have touched. With the help of two friends, he kidnapped a school girl from a street and raped her in a remote sugar cane field where three meter high sugar canes were not only the silent audiences of the crime but also the protectors of criminals. This time the girl gave a great fight to save herself so they needed to beat her brutally before Somsak could finally penetrate her body like a thief sneaking inside a house after spraying sleeping gas. She was like a dead dog under Somsak’s body, not moving, not making any noise. Once Somsak realized that what he had done could not be undone by his father he killed the girl with a large rock he found in the field. By the time he finished the murder and started to worry about the corpse his friends had already left him alone. He fled from his village and lived a fugitive’s life for two years. In these two years, he committed more crimes. He stole money from the shops, killed a bank guard, sold drugs in nightclubs and raped a few more girls just because they rejected his love. It took quite a long time for the police to find him and convict him of the murder. When he was caught, it was all about a drug deal. But the more the police investigated, the more they found about him. He confessed that he committed many other crimes, by himself, including the rape and murder of the little girl two years ago.

The capture and the following confessions shook the entire country and divided people into two groups: those who wanted him to be executed in the same way and those who wanted him to be executed in a worse way. Nobody knew what was worse than being raped and then having your head smashed to a mess of hair and blood but people wanted revenge and revenge has never been rational. If an innocent’s blood has been spilled, then that blood should teach something to society so that similar brutalities won’t happen again. The entire country was in shock and the justice system was not immune to this wave of screams. The judge considered his previous crimes, his drug dealing cases, other rape attempts and at the end his two murders. Finally, the decision was clear. He did not move when he heard the judge’s verdict, did not open his mouth and did not complain. Shocking everyone from his family, he stood as a man who regrets what he has done and he knows that judge’s decision was right. First time in his life, he felt helpless and feeble like a cockroach waiting for the hard end of the broom hitting his head. At the moment he learnt that his future would not exist, he started to think about death and what is beyond it.

He wanted to wear a clown mask on the day of his execution like the revolutionary hero whose stories made his childhood worth remembering. A mask which can hide his possible tears, a mask with a large smiling face, white and red paint around the mouth, a mask looking at the gray surface of the ceiling of the execution room as if that was the happiest moment of his life, such a mask would be nice for saving his karma forever. When the bullets carved in his flesh and stopped his heart in a few seconds, he would be laughing at the people on the earth, like one last Buddhist gesture, a celebration of the end of suffering, a wedding day perhaps, from a man who never cared about Dharma all over his life. He was sure that no one will go out for demonstrations with clown masks after his death like the legendary hero he admired so much. His death will be quiet, like an ant died under a child’s point finger. He will be forgotten soon by anyone he has encountered in his life. But now, there was a hope, a piece of wooden platform at the top of the giant waves, a piece of cotton thread which dangles from nowhere in the middle of the air. He wanted to hold it even though he knew the land to step on did not exist for him any more.

This thread would be new to him, something he never had in his life before, like a girlfriend maybe! A lover he had dreamed of in his lonely life. Even when he hugged many girls in his arms, he never felt any urge to love them. He hugged them because they could not escape from him. It was the fear of attachment keeping him away from love and it was the invincible lure of woman’s body keeping him on the shore. He was always there; on the beach where with one step further you would get wet and clean yourself off your sins. But he never had the courage, or the will to let his body get washed with the cold water of the ocean. He was mostly scared of not being able to get out of the water! What if the water was deeper than he thought? What if he would never be able to get back and dry himself? And the worst, what if he finds happiness in the warmness of the water like a child who loves to keep his legs under the blanket in a cold winter morning?

He looked at the dirty wall in front of him. The scars from cigarette ashes, a lifeless bug killed by a dirt-stained thumb, the moving shadow of the noisy fan which works almost twenty-four hours a day were the things that could still be seen in the dim light coming from the corridor. The cell was full of people, sleeping, snoring, fighting, playing, laughing, cursing and even shitting. There was no toilet inside but only a bucket. During the night, they were supposed to shit in inside that bucket. The smell of human defecate was unbearable at the beginning. Now he barely notices it. In the day time, they were allowed to go to the bathroom outside the cell. There were no beds inside. Everyone had a mat and slept on it. No pillows, no blankets, no sink to wash your hands in… He turned his body with a swift move and started to stare on the iron bars. The guard was a few meters away from the bars and he was not allowed to speak with inmates after midnight. He wanted to stand and look at the corridor where all his hope was born in the first place.

It all started with a half page of the newspaper he found in the corridor. He thought one of the guards wrapped his beer with this paper so that nobody could see what he was drinking. The guards were the same as the prisoners. They were also bored to death and mostly they spent their precious time with the inmates, chatting and laughing with them. Inmates and guards shared a common hope of getting out of the prison and never returning. Sometimes it was harder for a guard to get back to work after a cheerful night spent with his wife and children but that is their job and that is the way they could feed the mouths of the kids.

When he got the page of newspaper, he first tried to smooth the creased surface so that he would be able to read it easily or at least see the pictures clearly. What he wanted was is to read a few things about the world, to know what was going on and to make sure that he would not die in a world where people are happier than he was. This feeling had grown slowly in him after he started to act like a criminal. If he was unhappy and he did not deserve a decent life, then nobody should! That was the key to his crimes, his rapes and murders, his bloody hands on the little girl.

The half page was not giving him any hope of amnesty from the king or the queen, which many prisoners look for. It was just classified ads of lonely girls asking for someone to love them or care for them. Then he thought of this: What if he wrote a letter to one of the girls, told her some lies about his past and asked her to come to visit him in the prison. A lovely girl’s hands would be definitely much better than the rough and dirty hands of the ladyboys in the prison. How many years had passed since he had touched a woman’s skin? He tried to remember his last lovemaking but the only thing that came to his mind was the purple florescent light in a hotel room. There was only the light, and under the light, he was lying on the bed naked! It seemed as if nobody else was in the room, as if he had made love by himself. The girl he had taken from a nearby bar lay on the floor, unseen; face down and with her green bra on her back.

He tried to force himself to sleep but the more he tried the more it became difficult. Especially in the last few days, he was haunted by the dream which always ends at the same point: He runs in the empty streets of Bangkok. He passes through daily markets where old women sell frogs and eels, the vendors which sell fried bananas, young mothers who sell soya milk and chromosome-shaped fried snacks. The more he runs the more he sees the awakening city. The motorbike taxis with orange uniforms waiting at the corners, the palm readers sit in front of hospitals and wait for hopeless patients, young girls walking quickly and recklessly to catch the next bus… He sees all of them but also he notices that no one sees him. He enters one lane after another, moves without stopping, without thinking. It is a run for own life he thinks! You will run or you will die. Sometimes he looks at his behind to check if anyone is following. No one! He is the only one running in the entire city but still he is like a ghost, invisible to other. He keeps running, turning to smaller lanes, leaving the crowded roads. The lanes become empty, the people disappear. He feels lonely and extreme dehydration makes him exasperated. Then suddenly a small house appears in front of him. At the couch there is a bit of grass and flowers, on the door it reads “Salvation! This is where the suffering ends.” He knows where he ended up but wants to get back, wants to run back to same streets and get lost in the maze like a mouse left without the incentive of cheese. But two large arms hold him tight at the moment. He cannot move his body any more. When he starts to kick the air just to resist his inertia and cause some turbulence, two other hands hold his legs. Now his body is totally paralyzed. Worse than that, he himself believed it too so his mind is also dead-frozen. His body moves towards the door. The morning sun behind him is promising a new day, a new life but for him he knows he came to the point of no return. He passes the edge of the door, smells blood and gunpowder in the colorless rooms. Then he wakes up.

The dream ends here but he himself knows that reality will not end at the same point. It will go further and what cannot be seen in the dream will take his breath away from him. But now he has hope. She is coming to visit him tomorrow. She is coming to see him and hold his hands. That is what she wrote in her last letter. They exchanged pictures, they exchanged jokes, and they exchanged lies which make up life for each. The girl is from an Isan village, already served two years in prison because she mistreated the baby she was supposed to take care. But she never mentioned her prison term in her letters. She was one of the lonely girls in millions and why to bother to tell the truth, to a man who stole money from a pat-thai seller just because his mother needed medicine to survive. She believed the story because like her own story, there was no right or wrong! She remembered the parents of the baby she cared. How they tortured her with sharp bamboo sticks when she broke a glass, how they shouted at her when the food was a bit salty or tasteless. Then she was angry but did not know where to go. She was a bomb set to explode soon but not knowing that who will be the victim. That is why she chose the baby, the most innocent one. Whenever she was tortured by the parents, next day baby had bruises on her arms and legs. Soon they realized that she is inflicting all these pains on their precious little one. First they wanted to punish her by themselves by putting her in a dark room, raping her, beating her, leaving her starve to death. But later they realized that this will cause more stress at home, more trouble for themselves. They went to police and filed a complaint.

The rest is known by all media. She was the evil, she was the one who hates babies and likes to see them suffering, instead of making them happy. Judge listened to her story quietly and gave her only two years in prison. The parents also have been fined to pay some big amount of money but of course this has never been mentioned in newspapers. Once the media declared the evil then they cannot make their readers confused.

Somsak turned one more time but this time his hand went to his backpocket where he keeps his hope alive. He took the small picture and turned its surface to the dim light coming from the door. She was not a beautiful girl but there was something special on her face. A piece of curved hair falls down on her forehear like a spider dangling from the ceiling. Her eyes were small and the eye balls in them were even smaller. A bit like an elephant’s eyes he has thought when he saw them the first time. Small and sharp! There was no cheer in these eyes, bare satisfaction or ready to accept what is given. Her face was large and white, even whiter than many other girls he met before in his village. “She must be a muey” he thought and an envy smile appeared in his face. Trying to hide his excitement he looked through the door to see the clock at the end of the corridor. It was almost five. Soon the guards will appear and take them to the garden for morning exercises. Somsak never liked to exercise. His body was no more young, his mind was full of desire for freedom, his days were filled with fake hope for touching the hand of a real girl before his last day arrives.

At the end of the corridor he saw three guards walking towards the cells. On the right side there were rooms where the breakfast is served. Time was too early for the breakfast he thought while standing up in front of the bars to ask one of the guards. But the sound of footsteps and the jingling keys were the only answer he got. There was something extraordinary in the prison this morning. Then he remembered the execution of Noi, the drug dealer woman. When an execution is planned the breakfast is served one hour earlier and no prisoners are allowed to the garden till the execution ends. Thus everyone knows that prison will face a death that morning, one of them will go and not come back. Somsak tried to see what the guards up to but could not see much because of the darkness at the both ends.

He thought about Noi again. Her prolonged death by the bullets hit her left torso but not be able to find her heart was the most scary legend in the entire history of prison. Some prisoners even joked that she had no heart –if she had, she would have distributed yaba to prisoners- or the others said she is an angel. They had a ground for this latter one. Noi is the only prisoner who kissed her executioner on his cheek before she goes to death. She was even laughing before, not crying like many big boys. Legend this, she told her executioner how handsome he was and how she would love to marry him if she wasn’t to be killed in a few minutes. Her legend continued in the dark and smelly cells of the prison: After the first shooting, doctor claimed that she was dead. They took her blood-covered body to morgue to shoot the other two drug traffickers. But before they brought the new guy into the room, one of the guards saw that she tries to stand up in her blood bed which itself looks like a swamp. Her throat was gurgling with the warm taste in her mouth and she was fighting not to drown in her own blood. The guard tried to push her body down and tried to accelerate the blood flow but it did not work. She was still strong and wanted to fight. Then other guards came in. One suggested killing her there, in the morgue, with a hand gun but the chief prison officer said no, using hand gun is against the law. They carried her back to the execution room, loosely tied her to the steel cross, spread the white screen second time. This time no lotus in her palms, no red flag falling to represent the end. Then they shot six more bullets, this time right side of her torso where she carried her heart as if it was her own fault. She died without any more struggle, like a sack of rice falling from high, she fell on the floor.

Somsak was still looking at the corridor to figure out the things will happen soon and warn his friends in the cell. But how possibly could he know that this was the morning the decision for his death came from the chief army general as a summary execution. Normally a prisoner had to wait at least six months after their first appeal but the recent military coup took many rights of the prisoners away from them. The army was thinking that prisons were over-populated and must be cleaned as soon as possible. And executions were a good way to show the people that army is working for the country. It was not easy for an ordinary person to figure out that powerful ones need to do some innocent-looking killings to cover up their illegitimate killings of political minds. No appeal went to higher court, no Human Rights Protectors have been allowed inside the prison. Whenever the army general thinks that one more must be killed, the guards are waken up that morning two hours earlier than their usual time. A signed paper of execution verdict is given to the guards so that they can know who to execute and what time. Army generals might be thinking that this was a better way of dying. If the inmate knows when he will be executed, he will go crazy in the days of waiting. Army’s method was quick and silent! One morning you wake up and learn that today is the day. You have a few hours to react and for most of the prisoners these a few hours pass with hesitation of whether or not they will be able to believe this is going to happen to them. Since they did not think about it before, death comes to them like an accident, crashing a tree, hitting your head to the windscreen and dying instantly.

A few hours later Somsak was outside, in the garden, barefooted and alone. His hands were tied tightly. He was looking at the sky for a possible rain. The clouds were large, blocking the sunlight on his day of wedding but it seemed there will be no tears for this morning. On his right side there was the seven-storey security tower, on his left the yellow-painted walls of the prison. The guards were talking to each other with little voice, trying to hide something from each other, fear perhaps or the hesitation! Everyone knew that execution is not done by one person. The one who pulls the triggers should not feel the entire burden of guilt on his own shoulders so that at least six other guards are involved in the procedure. Two hold the prisoner and tie him, one holds the red flag –the only color in the execution room before the shooting-, one sets the gun to the target, and one just stands at the corner and watches because his responsibility is to write a report after each execution, one physician waits at the other corner to announce death. A collective work of killing is surely makes the executioner feel less guilty and less responsible.

But still, even they take little part in the entire job; they cannot get rid of the heavy ill-feeling of taking someone’s live so they were talking about things which will not remind them their job. Somsak knew what they were talking about. To scatter the black fog of death from their head, they talk about their families, their financial problems or how last night they had great time with some friends in a nearby restaurant which serves rice whisky and fried scorpions. One of them was talking about her daughter’s school expenses; the other one was looking at him, perhaps calculating the money he will receive from the government for the execution. Another one was quietly talking about Noi, the chaos the guard had to deal with during her execution. This will be the first execution after Noi. It must go smooth, it must be done quickly.

Somsak walked across the garden while looking at some of the sparrows on the ground. Their songs were cheerful, happy with the new day. Do they know that this is a prison and people are executed here? Sparrows don’t know about death he thought. Where do dead sparrows go? Why aren’t they around? Shackles on his legs were jingling in each step he takes. He was feeling exhausted somehow, maybe because of sleeplessness, maybe because of his expected guest who will go back home empty-handed in the afternoon. He felt like he needed to go to toilet but he knew that this was a fake feeling, emerging from the anxiety of death, the fear of rolling into a well where there is only darkness and trepidation. He at the end will reach to the finish point of his marathon which seemed to him as a never-ending dream.

Suddenly he found himself in front of the execution room. It looks the same as the one in his dreams, a bit grass at the front, closed white-painted windows, brown steel door, a concrete floor with absolute coolness, a few flowers just beside the Buddha image which seems not belong to the execution room but just brought here for him. There were wheels under the cart which carries the yellow Buddha image and the little vases still included stains of ashes from previous ceremonies. The old monk with his yellow robe was standing just next to the Buddha, holding the chain which is apperantly used for pulling the cart and chanting some words Somsak could not understand. The whole picture was a sort of divine joke for which he did not know how to react. His face was pale, his body was powerless. The guards unlocked his handcuffs, locked his shackles loosely enough to let him walk slowly and asked him to knee down before the Buddha image, lit a few incenses and beg for forgiveness.

He did what he was told. He kneed down and begged for forgiveness for the things he has done. He asked mercy from the people he hurt, the lives he has taken, the girls he raped, the shop owners whose money he has stolen and the lonely girl who will come this afternoon just to learn the lies he wrote. He wanted to cry to show the world that he was really sorry for what he has done but no tears came down from his eyes. He stood up, leaning on his hands pushing the cool earth. The guards helped him to stand and walked him inside where he will have his last breakfast. He entered the house. On the top of the door it was reading “This is the place where suffering ends.” He forced himself to smile but could not make it, remembering his dream and walked into the room where a table with variety of food waiting for him. There was kao-dom-guy with fresh vegetables on a side dish. There were also a dish of pineapple and mango, a bowl of icy desert with red and yellow pieces floating in it. He tried to remember when the last time he ate mango but could not make it. The food in the prison was monotone and persistently tasteless. Now he is being offered food which he has not touched for years but not surprisingly he had no appetite at all. This must be part of the joke he thought, making a miserable man happy just before killing him. He said “He does not want to eat because he does not want the food is wasted”. Then he asked the guards to give the food to one of his friends in the cell. The guards looked at him suspiciously, without knowing that if it is possible to transfer the last meal to someone else.

Rejecting his last food, Somsak asked for a pen to write his last letter. He had extra time now, gained from the meal. They gave him a pen, an empty clean –almost virgin- paper and an envelope to close his letter by himself. When a prisoner writes a letter while he is in his cell the guards always take the letter to the prison director for possible censors. However, it was not the same for the last letter of a prisoner. No one dared to read the last letter of a man who will be executed soon. No one wanted to because no matter how bad the prisoner was; he too deserved to say his last words to the people who cared about. To make sure that system works perfectly, they also put melted wax on the table for him to seal the envelope.

Somsak sat on the chair and wrote slowly; trying to remember the words he did not use for long time or sometimes even asking the guards how to spell the certain words. He was doing same thing in the cell while writing to the girl. Apichart was his friend who encouraged him to write more passionate letters, to use stronger rhyming words and to create fictional stories about himself. He filled the entire page, signed after the last line and took the photo from his back pocket. Putting the photo inside the folded paper, he inserted them into the envelope, then sealed the envelope. Behind the envelope, he wrote “To Apichart, my true friend”.

When he gave the sign to the guards that he is done, two big men came on both sides of him. He asked one of the guards that if they can give the letter to his friend before today’s lunch. The guard assured him with a brief gesture and disorientation. He knew that Somsak had a girl friend outside the prison walls but the letter wasn’t for her or not even for Somsak’s sick father who was also living his last months in the village. The last letter which is supposed to be sent to outside as the last scream of a vanishing existence was not meant to be a scream in Somsak’s case. It was probably a goodbye letter to a friend he met in the prison.

Big guards helped him to stand and walk towards the door where there was a machine gun on one side and a tall cross with blood stains on it. When he entered to the room, the guards stopped him and took his finger prints, signed the document which makes sure that they are taking right man to the execution room. They have to repeat same thing after the execution too. Holding a dead man’s lifeless finger and taking the finger print is not a job anyone would like to do but somehow guards too were used to do their job as an obligation, as a mechanical work.

After the fingerprints, Somsak asked for his clown mask –instead of being blindfolded- which was written in his last wish long time ago. He did not believe that the guards will bother to find a clown mask for him but it was there, on the little desk behind the machine gun. A face smiling widely, looking at the world nonchalantly was waiting to be worn. One of the guards took the mask and put it on Somsak’s face. The holes for the eyes were closed so at the end it wasn’t so different from being blindfolded. Then the guard at the corner read the execution verdict. Covered by the clown mask, nobody knew how he reacted to the long and heavy sentences pouring on his head like a bowl of hot water. He stood silently; smiling to every direction his head moved.

Then the time came. Guards walked him to the iron cross where rust and blood fight with each other’ to dominate the surface of the iron bars. Being blindfolded by the mask, with the help of two guards, Somsak walked slowly and thoroughly to the other end of the room. His arms were tied to the cross, a single lotus was put between his palms as a sign of pertinence in Buddhism, his torso was tightly pulled with the tension in his arms so that he will not be able to move his body during the shooting. His back was looking at the gun, his face has turned to the colorless wall. The guards walked back to take their positions beside the machine gun. Another two guards stretched a white sheet in front of the cross. On left side of the sheet there was a point which unmistakingly indicating Somsak’s heart.

The gun –or as the guards called it “Mighty HK MP5”- was an old submachine gun. It looked like a sewing machine at first sight with its four legs opening larger to the floor to decrease the vibration. The old guard who was responsible from setting the gun, aiming to the right point and charging the cartridge with fifteen bullets took his position and without saying a word, he did his job and left the room. Then the prison’s main executioner came into the room. “Angel of Death” was his nickname but he never liked it. A man of a few words, never talk more than what he has to say, never mentions his job to the people who do not need to know.

He just finished his last cigarette and came into the room. Everything was ready for him and his expressionless face was showing that he too was ready. He saluted other guards and a few government officials who were watching behind the barred windows. The guard with the red flag was standing half a meter beside the gun and he was holding the red flag straight, parallel to the ground. There was silence in the room and it was deadly for Somsak. He was waiting for the end but he did not know what was really happening behind him. Just stood there, tied to the cross, without moving, without breathing, like a primary school kid, standing in front of his class, waiting his punishment to end.

A few seconds after the silence dominated the room like a dirty party house following a flamboyant wedding ceremony, the arm holding the red flag dropped. The executioner pulled the trigger once and shot seven bullets. The smell of gunpowder was sharp and hard to miss. He looked at the other guards to get approval for the prisoner’s condition. The doctor walked swiftly to Somsak’s body, checked his pulse. He confirmed that he was dead. Executioner saluted the guards and the spectators again, then left the room for another cigarette.

Somsak’s body was carried outside the execution room with a cart which was similar to the one which brought Buddha image in the morning. The monk who was ready during the execution helped the guards to carry the dead body of Somsak. When one of the guards attempted to remove the mask from Somsak’s face, monk said “No, it was part of his wish that he will be cremated with the mask on his face.” The clouds were still there but there was no sign of the rain in the air. It was a sunless, desperate day for everyone. His body was taken to a nearby temple for cremation. No one from his family came to the last ceremony. He was burned with his clown mask on his face, with a large smile to the world as if this was the happiest moment in his life or as if there is nothing to worry about behind his last moment.

In the afternoon of the same day, a young girl appeared at the gate of the prison. She asked for Somsak. The guard at the entrance, not knowing about Somsak’s destiny, told her to wait at the cafeteria where the prisoners can meet with visitors. A few minutes later a tall, handsome prisoner appeared at the entrance. She looked at the picture then looked at the man, smiled and said “Are you Somsak? Woww! You look much better than how you look in this picture”. Apichat took the photo from his own pocket, looked at it again as if examining someone else’s wallet and said “You too! People look different in pictures because cameras are not capable of taking the picture of our souls”. The girl smiled again to his words which were similar to the witty sentences in his letters and put the spicy somtam bowl on the table together with kao-niyo and guy-yung. The afternoon light was strong, the cafeteria was quiet and her heart was beating hard like a little bird chirping in her bosom. They ate together; talked about the letters they wrote to each other. Both laughed and enjoyed the meal she brought. Then they watched the rain from the window while her hand was holding Apichat’s hands. A few minutes after the rain started, one of the prison guards standing at the corner looked at his watch and shouted “Nai Somsak, visitor’s hour ended”.

Ali Riza Arican

22 MARCH 2008 - HCMC